Tools Needed to Layout and Cut a Timber Frame

Use this list to get the tools you will need to begin your timber frame project.  The following allows you to explore both hand tool and power tool approaches.

It is easy to become tool infatuated!  We are guilty too.  However, using a minimum tool kit and becoming sufficient with those is a better approach to craft.  Also having less tools to find makes for better work and happier days.

We will break this article down into three categories. This post will discuss laying out the work, tools that are needed for cutting the timbers, and lastly, we will discuss equipment helpful for the raising site.

This timber frame tool list will be updated as we remember good ones and as our colleagues suggest them. You do not want a list too long though.

Some of these layout tools are obvious for building but we choose to list them no matter how simple.

• Carpenters Pencil. The trusty carpenters pencil is great for laying out timbers.  We use a chisel or block plan to sharpen 4 facets to make a strong and sharp point.  Using a 3mm diameter lead (with the proper hardness) is also good for laying out timber.  Just make sure you do not use a mechanical pencil with a lead smaller than that or it will constantly break.
• Framing Square.  In our mind, indispensable and irreplaceable.  There have been many who have tried to produce something better.  It is hard to beat the traditional framing square that has a 1 ½” wide tongue and a 2” wide blade. Both widths are common tenon widths.  The framing square is also advantageous as the longer the edge referencing the timber, 22 ½” in this case, the more accurate the squared line across the timber.  Try to find a framing square that has a 90 degree inside corner instead of the circular cut out where the tongue meets the blade on the inside corner.
• Chalk line.  Chalking lines on timbers to establish reference planes is a common practice to deal with rough sawn and untrue timber.  Check out the chalk lines that are self-retracting and have a needle point at the end of the line so you can use it as a one-person technique.  Remember to use either white or blue chalk.  Red and black will not come off your timbers.
• Chalk or Sharpie.  After you have laid out your joinery it can be hard to see it from a far.  Going back over the layout (check it again as you do) and drawing on the waste side of a cut with a sharpie makes it much more visible and easier when the tools are out to stay on your way with good work.

• Tape Measure.  We recommend getting a 25-footer. For laying out timber our preference is just a tape like the Stanley Power Lock as it lays flat easily.  Although we do love our Fat Max tape measures, these are best for the site when you need your tape measure to reach.
• Bevel Gauges.  Although not really a necessity for beginner work.  If you get into hip and valley framing, or finish eave work with compound angles.  Having a bevel gauge to transfer angles it a frequently used tool.  They are also great for transferring angles without using math.
• Construction Master.  Unless you prefer to use trigonometry functions for your work, we suggest purchasing a construction master calculator for determining roof work. Enter the roof slope and its run then find your rafter lengths. A construction master calculator is a valuable purchase.

Below is a list of the tools you will need to cut timber frame joinery.  Please note that there are both hand tools and power tools listed.  If you are a beginner, use hand tools first.   Hand tools provide better feedback and understanding of working wood.  Once you are in tune, power up if you like. 

• Handsaw.  A utility handsaw is a must for the timber framer’s kit.  Sometimes you might be faced with an angle that a power tool cannot make. Use your handsaw.
• Boring Machine.  If you want to experience the old ways of doing things you can use a boring machine to auger out your mortises before cleaning them up with chisels.  If you have many mortises we recommend looking into a chain mortising machine.
• Timber Frame Chisel.  Get a 1 ½” wide timber frame chisel.  We prefer Barr Quarton.
  
• Mallet.  For using for striking your chisel.  We prefer the rawhide heads from Garland.
  
• Timber Frame Slick.  Although not recommended by a lot of folks, the more we timber frame the more we like the slick.  It is a large chisel that requires no mallet to strike the tool.  Instead, it is held by a long handle with the hands and is pushed or shoved to cut wood grain.  The mass creates the force to let the tool do the work.  We love the timber framing slick.
• Jack Plane. It’s nice to have a good jack plane to clean up tables of scarfs and tenon faces
  
• Drawknife.  Good for creating organic chamfers in a machine-driven world.

• 7 ¼” Circular Saw. Get a sidewinder or worm drive.  We prefer worm-drive saws as they lend themselves to orienting your body mass behind the saw instead of closer to it.   The 7 ¼” circular saw will be useful for cutting out housing lines and for other kerfing tasks.
• 10” Circular Saw. We like the bigfoot adaptor that goes on the 7 ¼” worm drive saw by Bosch or Skil.  A 10” circular saw, with the bigfoot adapter allows you to cut at 90 degrees a full 3 7/8” depth.  Perfect for cutting most shoulders for tenons on your primary members.
• 16” Beam Saw. If you are going to timber frame you will need a big circular saw.  There are worm drives that are new on the market compared to the old “Big Mak” Makita 16” circular saw.
• Chain Mortiser. There are two chain mortisers that we suggest. One is the Makita that cuts with the grain and the other is the Mafell that cuts across the grain.  Although both are expensive, the Mafell is an expensive tool.  Unless you plan to professionally timber frame you should go with the Makita. 
• Router. A router will prove to be handy if you are cutting housings out for braces and joists.  Especially for fully housed members, meaning they have wood on all four sides.  Our least favorite tool due to its high-pitched whine.
• Forstner Bits.  Forstner bits for your drill will help you get into the corners of housing to rough them out as nice pockets for beams.
• Drill Stand.  Although it is not required if you can find a good drill stand on the used or new market it will make drilling peg holes more precise and less stressful.
• Auger Bits.  Cut your peg holes with a quality auger bit such as the Wood Owl Tri-Cut Auger Bit.

• Clamps.  Just because you need clamps.  Everyone needs clamps. Buy quality and if you can find the Bessey Spike Clamp, buy them up.
• Wheel Brush.  If you plan to work rough sawn timbers a Makita wheel brush with the nylon wheel will clean up your timbers quite nicely
• Plywood Wrench.  Get a few layers of plywood, glue them and screw them together.  Cut a 4-to-5-foot wrench out of them with an opening of about 8 3/8”.  Makes for much easier rolling of timbers.
• Snow Shovel.  If you know you know.  Timber framing makes lots of wood chips.

Here below are handy tools when it comes to making sure all those cut timbers fit together correctly.

• Trucker Straps.  Good for pulling timbers together during fit up and assembly of timber frame bents and wall frames.
• Come Alongs. Similar to trucker straps with more control.
• Sledgehammer.  When you need to persuade timber around.  Make sure you put a sacrificial block between the hammer head and the timber.
• Commander or Beetle.  Like a sledgehammer but made from wood and therefore is not such a brute on the timber faces.
• Balkenzug (A.K.A. The Claw).  A ratchet with two spikes on each end for pulling timbers together.  Make sure to use on unseen timber faces.
• Mirror.  Non-breakable for checking timber joinery on the underside during fit up.  A phone camera can work too.
• String lines.  Taut lines can tell you much about what a timber might be doing.
• Drift Pins.  Tapered Iron bars can be used to assemble the frame but then take back apart of fitting.

When it comes time to raise your timber frame kit or your DIY project you should consider these tools. Remember to bring your box of hand tools too. You should only need them minimally, if at all. 

• Telehandler.  Rent one to unload your timbers, move them around and raise the frames.
• Endless Round Slings.  Purple and Green rating are usually up for task.  4’ foot and 8-foot lengths are good too.
• Builders Transit or Laser Level.  A must for checking the support that your frame will sit on.  Adjust posts to length as necessary so your frame remains true and plumb on even a varying foundation.
• Strong Drill.  Driving structural fasteners for rafters and joists.
• Level and Plumb Bob.  For checking your work.
• Heavy Duty Clamps, Ratchet Straps, and Come Alongs.  For strong backing and reinforcing your assembled frames to raise.  Raising a frame is usually the most stress it will see.  Take care.
• Crane.  Cranes are expensive but they really make the raising go quick and smoothly if you have prepared all of the assemblies prior.